Terni, a city in central Italy’s Umbria region, has a special affinity for Valentine’s Day. Once the Christmas festivities wind down, heart-shaped light displays start appearing in the Piazza Tacito to herald the approach of February and its main event. The city hosts the ten-day “Choco-lentine’s Festival” along with the “Festival of the Promise,” where a bishop blesses engaged couples. The English words “Terni in Love” are projected across the sixteenth-century Palazzo Spada.
In recent years, Terni’s leaders have made efforts to attract more tourists. Saint Valentine, born in Terni before his martyrdom on February 14, has become central to the city’s identity. Despite the basilica bearing his remains, the city’s steel industry has historically overshadowed its association with Saint Valentine. Terni was once referred to as “the Italian Manchester” due to its prominence as a steel town, with the majority of jobs tied to the industry. The city’s steel production was closely linked to the defense sector during the world wars, and it gained a reputation as a left-wing “workers’ city.”
Renowned scholar Alessandro Portelli, who grew up in Terni, is known for his work in oral history and has explored how the city gained its blue-collar identity in his studies. His findings depict Terni’s working-class community, including martyrs like Luigi Trastulli, who died at a protest and became an emblem of the working class’s fight for equality, surpassing even Saint Valentine in significance.
The decline of Terni’s once prominent steel industry has contributed to a shift in the city’s political landscape. The inability to prevent downsizing and privatization of the steel industry since the 1980s has led to a fragmented workforce, with only a minority of employees still working in the sector. While there have been significant workers’ struggles, including strikes and demonstrations, the city’s political authorities seem to have accepted a managed decline for the industry.
The once staunchly left-leaning Terni community has witnessed a political shift, with right-wing parties gaining traction. The decline of mass, class-based parties has also been accompanied by electoral abstention. In the 2022 general election, right-wing parties secured a substantial portion of the vote, while the left-leaning Five Star Movement also gained popularity among disappointed ex-leftists.
The city’s current mayor, Stefano Bandecchi, has emphasized a shift towards tourism, highlighting the need for “urban propriety” to attract tourists. However, Bandecchi’s tenure has been marked by controversial statements and behaviors, leading to his resignation after just eight months in office.
Terni’s transformation from a working-class stronghold to a city in transition is evident, with a legacy of sacrifices and enduring health complaints overshadowed by the city’s focus on tourism and its association with Saint Valentine.
As Terni navigates this transition, it remains to be seen how the city will reconcile its industrial past with its aspirations for a tourism-centered future. The city’s story reflects larger shifts in the political and economic landscape of Italy and the challenges of adapting to a changing global economy.
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